Risotto, be mine forever.

Backlog from yesterday, 28 May 2010
What a great day in Parma! This small city has been a treat and a wonderful introduction to Italy. It's small enough to walk through and not too much traffic that you sincerely fear for your life while crossing streets. Our goal for the day was to eat as much as was comfortable and we defintely succeeded. With a morning cappucino and heavenly pastry, we were ready to explore the baptistery and the Museuo Disocesano di Parma. The hour and a half of gazing at remarkable 12th century frescos left us completely famished (ha!), and we indulged in some pistachio and strawberry gelato. Culinarily satisfied, we walked about the streets where Romans once tromped and traded. We discovered a small, cozy bookstore full of beautiful collectible books, from Pinochio to antique Taschen hardbacks. Let the drooling commense!

Not able to buy books, we set out for more food! Chris ordered a first course of risotto and a second course of insalata with procuitto. I ordered a first course of arribiata spagetti and a caprese for the second course. Just one course would have been a more prudent choice! Chris scored the best dish of the day award with his risotto. Served on a flat plate, the risotto was a creamy circle of goodness dashed with the freshest ground pepper and local parmesian cheese. My spagetti revealed what spagetti is supposed to taste like- fresh pasta complimented with just enough tomato and olive oil to make you lick your lips with every bite. Ready for a nap but a long way from the hotel, we sat a while longer and enjoyed an espresso in the tiniest of cups.

Something unusual also happened today- I felt like shopping. This has only happened about 10 days in my whole life so we capitalized on it while it lasted. We had our eyes peeled for a good pair of jeans or a purple top (which seems to be the pentultimate of cool right now). I should add the caveat that I am awkward enough with salespeople who speak English so the prospect of an Italian boutique was daunting. With Chris' encouragement, we went into a shop that had a shirt I liked in the window. After two failures of jeans- not knowing my European size or even how to say numbers in Italian- I tried on the top in the window while Chris chatted with the congenial shopkeeper. Prego! An attractive pattern, a flattering cut plus one mastercard and we were on our way, shopping bag in tow. We have now purchased exactly two things that are not Dune paperbacks, food or survival related! Don't worry- gift purchases will surely come later in the trip when we have fewer kilometers to travel.

Later 28 May, after dinner at Leon d'Oro
We just enjoyed one of the best meals, worthy of celebration. It began with a house red wine that tingled on our tongues. It was followed by ossobucco for Chris and risotto with red cabbage for me. Chris' ossobucco rested in a nest of yellow risotto, in an quantity impossible to finish. We slowly made our way through the hearty dishes and after over an hour, finally surrendered. A dessert tray had been rolled closer and we knew better than destroy ourselves on the main courses.

A decision was in order: which of the many delicious desserts would we chose? Chris saw one nestled amongst the others. It was cakey, tripled-layered, folded in on themselves. The outer layer was a vibrant red, soaked in liquor. Cozy inside were two layers: one of chocolate and another of custard. Beside it, a heafty dollop of creme with coffee bean peppered throughout. Decadent, amazing and fulfilling. We finished the dinner of indulgence with a shot of distilleria- grappa from chardonnay. Stout, flavorful and subtle, it warmed and enlivened us just enough for us to haul ourselves up three flights to our room.